Wednesday, October 24, 2007

ruminations, reflections, and non sequiturs

Soon I have to go do my Ulpan homework and pack for my busy weekend, but I realized I may not have the chance to blog for a bit and wanted to get some thoughts down. Tomorrow we have Ulpan at 9am, and the "bus" (actually a ten passenger van) is picking us up at 11:30 am midway through class. We have scheduled programs/ workshops/ speakers/ services/ tours from very early morning until 11:30 pm both nights, but I'm hoping to maybe still see some friends while in Jerusalem. We'll see how realistic that proves to be. We leave after Havdalah and get back to Arad around 9 pm Saturday night, and Sunday afternoon after Ulpan all forty of us are going back to Jerusalem for a cultural event with WUJS. Tuesday we have an all day study tour (not sure to where but we have tours every Tuesday), and Thursday we're going to Jerusalem AGAIN. There's a Hadag Nachash concert being organized by MASA. I can't wait to see them again! I saw Hadag Nachash at NFTY Convention in Philadelphia this past February. Israelis seem surprised to hear that they played in the US for over a thousand Jewish teens and youth workers. So as you can see, there's a very good chance I will not be blogging again until next weekend.

Allie and I were very productive today. We got up early for a memorial service held in our courtyard to commemorate Yitzak Rabin's assassination. It was led in three languages (Hebrew, Russian, and English) and was very moving. All of the flags today flew at half mast, but most of Israel went on as though it were a regular day. The teachers and most professors here have been on strike for quite some time and schools and universities are closed and some even padlocked. Today they opened for memorial services and then were promptly closed again. This amuses me as it seems counterintuitive. Banks and post offices and such appeared to be open and working regular hours. I was disappointed not to see the day mentioned in most major international news sources. I expected more to be different about today, but other than the displays in our courtyard and the entrance to our building all is as before. We did spend the first half hour of Ulpan however discussing the historic event and current conditions.

After Ulpan (where I continue to amaze myself with how much I've learned in less than a week!) I wanted to take a nap but instead joined Allie for a trip into town. We ran a number of errands and finally bought laundry detergent as well as a drying rack. The drying rack serves to save us money in not having to pay to use the dryer but also saves our clothes from its industrial strength AND lessens our carbon footprint on the environment. Now that's a good deal for $10! (Walking everywhere and not having my car for the time I'm here also makes me feel very green friendly, but I still miss the freedom of driving sometimes. Or maybe just my car.) My Russian was once again useful in finding the rack at the general store as well as getting free hangers from a clothing store at the mall. Paying for hangers seemed silly. I have no idea why there weren't some already here left behind by previous participants. Carrying the rack and a large bottle of fabric softener all the way back gave my arms a great workout. It's quite amazing how quickly my body responds to toning. I feel great!

My first Israeli Art & Culture class with Steve Israel was very interesting as was the dinner seminar he led on social justice for those of us in the PSJ track. I'm so glad I decided to be in this track rather than art. The art track takes only one class, and they spend most of their time creating art/ music or writing in their studios. I don't feel like my personal mission in Israel is to express but rather to pour knowledge and experiences into myself as a sort of vessel. I feel so very hungry for knowledge about everything. I'm ravenous! I still want to take every class offered! I was impressed with how much I am able to bring to discussions despite a few people's stigmas about a "Reform education." Just goes to show education is education. There's so much we absorb through involvement of any kind, but I think active participation and engagement is key. On a random note, I miss my Dan Nichols's cds! I have "all the world's a narrow bridge..." stuck in my head and in general I really need to get Mim or someone to email me some tracks. Being in Israel very much lends itself to his music, but to most of you, that's probably redundant.

Yesterday was as fantastic as I'd hoped it would be. Beautiful, scenic, educational. Very hot and a very long day to be sure but so worth it. The garden we visited had a special sensory garden with water components and herbs for olfactory stimulation for the blind or hard of seeing visitors. Very cool.

Jonathan (our educational director) made an intriguing statement during our pre-departure meeting Monday night. He was talking about the importance of the waves of aliyot to Israel's history and said that they are especially crucial in Judaism's history because ours is not the telling of the story of one central figure or person but of a people's journey towards statehood. I'm not capturing his words accurately, I know, but the idea is something I'm still pondering. Zichron Yaakov and the events that took place there are certainly critical to Israel's existence today when seen from that vantage point. [Non sequitur alert] We also had delicious Chinese food for lunch. Not one of the six of us could resist the business lunch special. It was a little more than the average cost of an entree but included soup or eggrolls, Chinese salad, steamed or fried rice, entree, AND dessert. SO much food! We knew it was more than we would eat for lunch, but leftovers are a wonderful thing and the deal was simply too good. We tried to resist. We really tried. Most other people ate at cafes and also had delicious meals. (Food is good.) The town as a whole was adorable, and I made a mental note to go back either one weekend or during my month in Israel after this program ends. There were many cute shops we never made it to, but the winery tour was worth putting the shopping off until next time. I'm realizing I may not actually have an idea of what I want to do after May until I start my internship in January.

I'm certain there's more to tell, but homework awaits. Please keep the comments and emails coming. I'm sorry I can't reply as consistently as I'd like, but they mean a lot to me! (Victor, Jamie, & Janet- thank you!!)

Whoever posted the food comment anonymously that I didn't publish... and you know who you are (Andrew- was it you??)... I want to assure you I have not "lost it." Sometimes mashed potatoes really are that good!

Monday, October 22, 2007

pps

The rosemary mashed potatoes were easily the most delicious thing ever cooked in a microwave! And I have had some true love affairs with pizza bagels and easy mac.

1am update

This will have to be shorthand because I am exhausted and need to have already gone to bed. I just received an email from the representative from MASA with whom I interviewed today, and I was accepted into the Leadership Building Program for the series of three seminars being held in Jerusalem! It means missing my Ulpan class Thursday which is sad, because I really enjoy learning Hebrew. But hopefully I will be able to catch up, and it's for a really great cause! There must be several of us going, because we are getting our own bus from Arad to Jerusalem. Although I'm not sure yet who else got in. There were only 45 spots open in the program for the close to 10,000 MASA participants currently studying in Israel. I feel honored! I'm also proud of myself for taking advantage of every single opportunity available to me even if it means pushing back seeing my extended family one more week. The seminars are spread out over several months, so it shouldn't create too many problems. I can't wait to meet the people from other programs who were accepted! I know... the excited me and the practical me are both thinking at once. That's how it goes at 1am.

I also forgot to mention in my last post just how supportive and nurturing everyone here is of all of us. The staff members are truly incredible, and they really do try to make our lives as easy as possible including every aspect of adapting to Israel and the culture. I should also mention that my parents' Russian wisdom on things like how to know which carrots are the sweetest has come quite in handy. (I hope that sentence makes sense. I'm far too tired to figure out why it sounds wrong to me at the moment.) In addition to translating I was particularly proud of myself this afternoon for picking up a book of Russian jokes and not only being able to read and understand but also reading the joke aloud to our new Russian babushka friend. I felt like I had passed some sort of test. I don't practice my reading very often except more and more here, and I'm thrilled each time when I can do it. Israel is proving to be an excellent environment for all of my language skills. Several people also speak Spanish, so even that is being put to some use. I find myself answering "si" instead of "ken" all the time.

One last thing I think my family especially will appreciate... I found out quite accidentally that two of the guys in the Art track are writers. One of them is actually a science fiction writer, and we've been talking a lot about my great grandfather, Vivian Itin, who was an author. I was surprised to learn how enthusiastic they are to find out more about him, and it has led me on a bit of a quest to find information in English about him on the internet. There isn't much, but they are desperate for me to translate some of what he wrote into English for them. I'm very uncertain as to whether I will have the time to pursue this new project here, but I'm starting to seriously consider its undertaking and wondering why I haven't before. So that's one of my big things this week.

Babushka- ya tebya nezabevayou!

Sunday, October 21, 2007

day 8- ani mevina kzat ivrit

The clock says it's just about 8pm. I am in a fantastic mood and very excited to have some time to myself and to blog. My roommate Allie who continues to amaze, challenge, and inspire me is out for a run, so I have the privilege of having the room and her computer all to myself. My favorite songs are playing on my MP3 player, and I am a happy happy girl. 

Today has been a very busy day with not one but two trips into town, Ulpan, and a "Night Before" lecture about our tour tomorrow to Zichron Yaakov. (Typing my grandfather's name just caused a wave of sadness to wash over me, but I hope I can find a way to make peace with the feeling before tomorrow morning.) Essentially we are going north to Israel's wine country and the location of the arrival of what is considered one of the first official waves of Jewish immigrants here. The first aaliyah. I'm really excited for the trip. We've been told it's one of the most beautiful places in Israel, and the description of the promenade, shops, gardens, and wineries sounds incredible. 

Let me back track a little... our tiyul (hike) through the Negev was fantastic as expected, although I would like to report that there were not one million stars. To be fair, it was a cloudy night and we had minor light pollution, but around 2am I counted "only" 800,000 stars. Give or take a few. So many bright stars! :O) I will post pictures soon of the trek around the Machtesh Ramon and the other places we climbed, but I know the pictures do not do justice to what we saw and experienced. The night we spent camping out we also had a bonfire complete with singing and roasting marshmallows.  The food was delicious both days! Lots of fresh cheeses and dairy products with vegetables and baked goods. Of course there were meats for those of the carnivorous persuasion. 

I loved challenging myself physically and am relieved and happy to say my body cooperated and has been responding very well to all the walking, climbing, and hiking. We're walking everywhere including up the six flights of stairs to our apartment and getting into great shape.

Coming back to Arad for Shabbat was wonderful. We were all dirty and sweaty in a very back to nature sort of way, and it was great to rest, shower, and prepare ourselves for our first Shabbat together. I wasn't crazy about sitting separately but beside the boys in our Beit Knesset (sanctuary) or the structure of the service, and it made me think of home and miss the connection I've come to feel with Reform Judaism. Most of my friends here were raised in either the Conservative or Orthodox movements, and they were surprised to learn that I brought kippot with me to Israel. (I decided to wait to mention I also brought my tallis!) Hopefully I will be able to spend at least one Shabbat in Jerusalem either at HUC or with some of the students there or maybe some of the other Reform Jews I know who are currently in the country. (Josh... Cole... Andrew... what are your services like??) This coming weekend I may be in Jerusalem but for a pluralistic leadership conference. More on that if it happens. 

Saturday was quite restful. We went on what was supposed to be a 20 minute walk and instead was a 3 hour tour. Arad continues to amaze me. We passed Amos Oz's house- a famous Israeli author. As we were walking down a lush and colorful street with many plants and flowers on either side of us was the desert. At one stop point to our right in the distance we saw a boy riding a donkey. Soon there was a herd of animals which seemed to appear out of nowhere that came over the crest of a hill. Imagine seeing that in Raleigh walking down the street! To our left, a few cars occasionally drove by. Beyond the cars a sign pointed to Masada. When we got to the look out point where we were headed, we could see for miles including to the Dead Sea and beyond to Jordan. We can see the Dead Sea from nearby where we live! I would have taken lots of pictures, but it was Shabbat and we plan to go back soon. Havdalah that night was quite lovely, but it has always been one of my favorite services. 

Yesterday we began our Ulpan, and I sat in on the environment class which I'm still deciding whether to add. (Choosing only five of nine possible classes all of which sound interesting is a challenge! A wonderful wonderful challenge.) Those of us in the PSJ (Peace & Social Justice) Track met with our coordinator to hear about Atidim. Atidim means futures, and the organization works with scholastically gifted high schoolers from underprivileged areas around Israel especially here in the Negev and in recognized Bedouin villages. A number of us are very interested in volunteering through them in some of the local schools just outside Arad. Again, more on that as it happens. 

Then last night Allie and I took a very fortuitous trip to Be'er Sheva. In the interest of brevity and getting other things done tonight, I will say we saw our friends, made some new ones, and had a terrific time. Ori came to meet up with us at dinner, and it was nice to see a familiar face. Although we were in the "real world" and in Israel, so it almost didn't feel familiar since it was so far removed from camp. We came back on the last bus around midnight and high fived as we walked to the building at having successfully navigated Israel outside of Arad. (Be'er Sheva is about 45 minutes from here by bus, and the bus ticket is only 10 shekels (approx. $2.50). )

Janet asked me in an email today what an average day here is like. I have no idea. No day here has been average so far! :O) In some ways, I hope soon there will be some sort of sense of routine, and in other ways, I hope every day continues to be unique and surprising. I mentioned in the beginning of this post two trips into town today. One was with Allie to the shuk. Yes, it's Monday again! There were more people shopping today. Maybe because we went earlier. I didn't buy much, but we tasted fruits I had never seen before. My market friend Aber was there and definitely remembered me. So funny. It's so cool walking around and seeing people from all walks of life... some speaking Russian, some dressed in veils and completely covered, some wearing all black and tzit tzit. I'm in Israel! Still beyond words and beyond any gratitude I could express to family, friends, and others for helping me get here. 

The second trip was more amusing than anything. I was hired (for the price of a delicious lunch in town) by my friend Shlomo to come with him and translate so that he could get his haircut. It was a successful endeavor for everyone although not as simple as it seemed at first. Essentially we found a nice Russian grandma to translate to the barber... Shlomo to me to the babushka to the barber. Good times! 

Okay... one hour after I sat down, and I am hungry! Time to go downstairs to microwave some potatoes with the butter I bought last week (ps peanut butter is so expensive here but spreadable delicious chocolate is not at all). It may sound a little pitiful, but I'm adding fresh rosemary I picked during our walk through town. It grows wild on the sides of the street. Rosemary potatoes doesn't sound half bad, right? :O) While they cook I have Ulpan homework to do then shower and bed early. We leave at 6:30 am. 

A whole week already! It feels like a lifetime. Time is still in tourist warp speed mode. I couldn't believe it was only day eight when I looked at my planner just now. We've hiked in the desert, spent the night in a tent, had our first Shabbat, started our Ulpan (Hebrew classes), stocked up on groceries, gotten to know our way around Arad, and taken a trip to see friends in Be'er Sheva.  Funny and amazing things happen all the time, and there's never enough time to write about all of it. I've already had a number of 3am incredible conversations, and that alone makes this journey beyond worthwhile. 

Monday, October 15, 2007

day 1- success in the market place

Wow- has it really only been one day?? I didn't get to make my phone calls last night since my phone card doesn't work with the pay phone in our building, but I'm working on it. Tomorrow I get my cell phone anyway, and from there it should be pretty easy to make and receive calls. Also, I am very excited to say that I am writing currently from my very own room! Yes- my roommate Allie arrived (we like her a lot) and brought her laptop, and we found out since we're so close to the wireless internet in the computer room that we get it too... for free! Good times. So far so good. 
We're on the sixth floor of a seven floor building (one of the tallest in town) and have a terrific view of Arad and the desert. It's amazing walking around how many plants and flowers there are around here still blooming well into October. There are also a lot of stray cats and kittens- a parting gift from the British who brought them in to take care of the then mouse/ rat problem. Good thinking! We've counted at least 23 that we've seen out and about. Last night there were four adorable kittens hiding under a car. They started to follow us home, but of course there's no way to keep them. 
Maybe I should tell you about my day...
I woke up this morning after sleeping in a little with no jet lag (hurray!) and socialized with other people in my program until it was time for lunch. Lunch was various hot foods, hummus, and lots of fresh delicious vegetables and salads. Much better than camp vegetables, but then again, American fruits and veggies in general have too many pesticides to have a true aroma or flavor. I grabbed some white peaches and an orange muffin to have for breakfast. We're very resourceful around here. 
After lunch we all met up for a mini tour of Arad and to go to the shuk. There is a shuk or market in almost very town in Israel, and the one here is open on Mondays. It's a bit like the flea market and the farmer's market in Raleigh all in one but not as large. I loved the smells of fresh citrus, bananas, mangoes, persimmons, tomatoes... you name it! There were pomegranates split open for people to see the jewel toned seeds inside and oranges sliced for potential buyers to taste. The ripe Jaffa oranges however were green- go figure. 
We didn't have to haggle, because the prices were already so low. For under fifteen dollars I got apples, bananas, red peppers, potatoes, a frying pan, and 40 rolls of toilet paper! Not bad! I got a great deal on the fruit though because the guy spoke Russian and fell in love with me. :O) He insisted on giving me his number. Don't get excited... I'm not sure we're meant to be. But he was very sweet, and it's always a nice ego boost to be admired. 
There's so much more to tell... I don't know where to start. Everyone in the program seems wonderful. We're a very diverse group from Canada, France, Russia, England, Scotland, Dominican Republic, and all over the US. I may have even missed a country or two, and not everyone has arrived just yet. Everywhere around me I'm reminded that I'm in Israel. From the date trees lush with fruit falling to the street to the desert sand to hummus served as a bar food and Hebrew and Russian everywhere. Yes, my Russian is getting me far. Most signs don't have English, and most of the people really do speak Russian everywhere we go. 

Bedtime for now. We have a big day tomorrow with sign ups and registration as well as orientation. Lilah tov! 

Sunday, October 14, 2007

let the fun begin!

Shalom! I am finally in Arad! At the present I am writing to you from our computer lab conveniently located just two doors down from my room while eating yummy hummus with sesame crackers. Ah the first meal in a new country. :O) The flights were good with only a few delays here and there but nothing major. I sat next to some very nice people, and the food wasn't that bad. On one flight we even had marble swirled cheesecake! I slept most of the time anyway. Sorry for the lack of inspired eloquence in this post. I'm exhausted, and the computer is not entirely cooperating. Off to make a couple calls then shower and pass out. More soon! Leave me love

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

but first... adventures in raleigh

There are some friends in our lives with whom we need no plans. Running errands at BJs or wandering spontaneously around town can become the best adventures when these people are around. Yesterday my friend Travis (whom I absolutely adore) and I had one of those types of afternoons. He's one of the few friends I have who gets excited about the same random things that I do from open sun roofs to socially conscious slam poetry. And he's usually up for going along with whatever crazy plans I dream up.

We had planned to get coffee, but instead went to some of my favorite places around Raleigh in search of the best dictionary/ phrasebook for my trip. Reader's Corner did not have what we were looking for, but I bought some vintage postcards and Travis got a record. Yes, a vinyl record. We're very retro like that. :O) Todd who hosts monkeytime on the public access channel was working, and it was amusing asking him the questions I have always wanted to ask about segments they've done in the past.

Quail Ridge was next on the list. I finally did find the perfect slim volume that contains grammar, phrasebook, and dictionaries. So useful! In addition, I of course also found a new journal just made for the next six months- Alice in Wonderland with great quotes from the book throughout the journal. Shopping concluded, I figured we would say goodbye, but I thought of one more place we had to go.

As it turns out, Travis had just been to the Arboretum, and he made an excellent guide. I had been there once before in the winter, and I don't think I saw one tenth of it that time. If you've never been, and you live near Raleigh- go! Right now may be one of the best times. It's near NC State by Neomonde off of Hillsborough Street. (Another great place!)

Travis proclaimed that we needed to start with the succulent garden. Before I could even make a joke, he cut me off teasing me about my "fetish for innuendo." It's true! (And very well put.) So we continued exploring the various gardens... Winter Garden, Asian Garden, etc. Everywhere we went there were gorgeous plants to see and smell and sometimes even taste. We made our way to a fig tree with fully ripe fruit and couldn't help but try some. Sorry City of Raleigh! I think the last time I ate figs off of a tree was seventeen years ago in Italy when my family was immigrating.

Despite Travis's better advice, I also tried some of the ripe flying dragon fruit we came across. The fruits themselves looked like tiny tangerines only with fuzzy peach-like skin. They smelled far too fragrant to be poisonous, I decided. Sure enough, when I sucked the juice, it was tart but slightly sweet and extremely aromatic. Totally worth it. I looked the plant up online later, and it's a perfectly safe if uncommon citrus.

My favorite things in the Arboretum though have to be all of the places with water, especially the miniature waterfall into the pond with fish and stunning lavender water lilies. Maybe it's a Pisces thing. There was also a weeping elm that looked like something out of a storybook, and we made it a point to sneak in under the canopy and play for a bit under there. It somehow reminded me of the twisted old olive trees I saw in Israel ten years ago.

I can't believe I'm going back there so soon! Reality washes over me more and more often, but each time it's still a fantastic surprise that it's really happening. Actually, the desert plants reminded me that in a week I will be hiking through the Negev and sleeping underneath the 1,000,000 star sky. (I'll be sure to count and get back to you about the accuracy of the nomenclature.)

I'm really looking forward to living in another country rather than simply visiting for a period of time. I can't wait for a winter holiday season without Christmas things in every store. Although I hear there really isn't very much in the way of Chanukah in Israel either, since it's a fairly minor holiday in Judaism. Purim should be great and Pesach too. What do you say in place of "Next year in Jerusalem???" There's also this issue of it being the seventh year in a cycle, and so technically Jewish farmers can't grow anything on their land. Should be interesting!

Three more days...

Friday, October 5, 2007

life's a journey

There's a lot of pressure in posting my first blog entry. (Might I add ever.) I have wanted to start a blog for a while, and now as I am about to set out on my big adventure, it seems like the perfect time. Timing is everything.

At the moment I'm at a little coffee house still in Raleigh where it is finally raining for the first time in far too long. Rainy days somehow lend themselves all too well to writing of any kind. And I never need an excuse for coffee... or naps for that matter. Go figure.

So now that you know all about me, allow me to explain the title of this post. Quite simply- I'm about to embark on an amazing journey! (Embark- what a great word!) I am moving to Israel for about half a year for the WUJS Arad program. I'll be doing the Peace & Social Justice track, and for those of you who know me, you know that this has "jane" written all over it. I couldn't possibly be more excited! I know the next six months will bring tons of traveling, many misadventures, new friends, visits with old friends, and journeys of all kinds- intellectual, spiritual, and emotional. Stay tuned!

*Special thank you to Beth Shalom's Kesher Fund, Rabbi Lucy Dinner at Temple Beth Or, and MASA for helping to make this dream a reality!